The 2019 IFSC Climbing World Championships, the 16th edition, were held in Hachioji, Japan from 11 to 21 August 2019. The championships consisted of lead, speed, bouldering, and combined events. The paraclimbing event was held separately from 16 to 17 July in Briançon, France. The combined event also served as an Olympic qualifying event for the 2020 Summer Olympics.
Medal summary
Medalists Men's Lead Men's Bouldering Men's Speed Men's Combined Women's Lead Women's Bouldering Women's Speed Women's Combined
Medal table
Qualification for the 2020 Summer Olympics
The seven best climbers of the combined event automatically qualify for the 2020 Summer Olympics, where sport climbing will make its debut. There are seven spots available per gender, with a maximum of two spots per country.
The qualifiers for the 2020 Summer Olympics from the 2019 World Championships Combined events are:
2020 Summer Olympic qualification Men Women**
* , as the host nation, were guaranteed two quota places in each event. However, despite four climbers of each gender being in qualification positions in Hachioji, only two athletes of each gender could receive Olympic invitations. Harada and Nonaka were later named after some debate as to whether the Japanese team could choose their two athletes, or whether the spots must go to the top two qualifying athletes.
Schedule All times and dates use Japan Standard Time (UTC+9) QQualificationsSFSemi-finalsFFinals BBoulderingLLeadSSpeedCCombined August 201911thSun12thMon13thTue14thWed15thThu16thFri17thSat18thSun19thMon20thTue21stWedMenBBBLLLRest daySSCCWomenBCC
Bouldering Women Rank NameQualificationSemi-Final Final 1 Janja Garnbret5t5z 5 53t4z 7 6 3T3z 8 82 Akiyo Noguchi5t5z 9 92t4z 3 8 2T2z 4 2 3 Shauna Coxsey3t5z 6 90t3z 0 6 2T2z 6 6 4 Ievgeniia Kazbekova 4t5z 14 141t2z 2 3 1T2z 3 4 5 Miho Nonaka3t4z 4 80t3z 0 5 1T2z 5 6 6 Nanako Kura 5t5z 12 101t2z 1 5 0T1z 0 1
Men Rank NameQualificationSemi-Final Final 1 Tomoa Narasaki4t4z 8 52t4z 2 4 2T4z 12 202 Jakob Schubert 3t4z 5 61t4z 3 12 0T3z 0 10 3 Yannick Flohé3t5z 5 142t4z 13 16 0T3z 0 13 4 Kokoro Fujii 4t4z 5 52t4z 5 6 0T3z 0 18 5 Keita Dohi 3t5z 6 82t4z 5 10 0T2z 0 9 6 Adam Ondra5t5z 6 63t4z 11 7 0T0z 0 0
Lead Women Rank NameQualificationSemi-Final FinalRoute 1Route 2PointsScoreRankScoreRank 1 Janja GarnbretTOP1TOP11.2238+ 43+2 Mia Krampl35+63277.3534 39+ 3 Ai Mori39+2TOP11.7334+ 38+ 4 Seo Chae-hyun3483845.6632 38+ 5 Akiyo Noguchi34+733+66.4832 38+ 6 Jessica Pilz37+331+128.2630+ 35+ 7 Vita Lukan282131+1221.1835 30+ 8 Julia Chanourdie31+1031+ 1214.9730+ 30+
Men Rank NameQualificationSemi-Final FinalRoute 1Route 2PointsScoreRankScoreRank 1 Adam OndraTOP131229.0737+ 34+2 Alex MegosTOP132+76.0640+ 33+ 3 Jakob SchubertTOP1TOP13.5030+ 33+ 4 Tomoa NarasakiTOP1TOP13.5038 30 5 Sean McColl31+9TOP15.6137+ 30 6 Stefano Ghisolfi28+18TOP18.0529+ 29+ 7 Kai Harada32+8TOP15.2931+ 28+ 8 Hannes Puman 29+1132+711.6829+ 27+
Speed Women Aleksandra Miroslaw won the women's speed final against Di Niu. In the small final Anouck Jaubert (7.534) won against YiLing Song (9.768) and secured the third place.
Men Ludovico Fossali won the men's speed final against Jan Kriz. In the small final Stanislav Kokorin (5.835) won against Danyil Boldyrev (5.934) and secured the third place.
Combined
Climbers who participated in all three events of bouldering, lead, and speed would receive a combined ranking, and the top 20 of each gender would automatically qualify for the combined event.
In combined competition, scoring is based on a multiplication formula, with points awarded by calculating the product of the three finishing ranks achieved in each discipline within the combined event. A competitor finishing with a first, a second and a sixth would thus be awarded 1 x 2 x 6 = 12 points, with the lowest scoring competitor winning.
Women
Rank Name Points Speed Bouldering Lead Rank Time Rank Score Rank Holds 1 Janja Garnbret 12.00 6 13.399 2 1T2z 1 2 1 Top 2 Akiyo Noguchi 21.00 7 10.082 1 2T2z 3 3 3 40+ 3 Shauna Coxsey 42.00 2 9.225 3 1T2z 2 3 7 20 4 Aleksandra Mirosław 64.00 1 7.750 8 0T0z 0 0 8 10 5 Miho Nonaka 80.00 4 12.356 4 1T2z 3 4 5 23+ 6 Ai Mori 80.00 8 12.860 5 1T2z 3 7 2 Top 7 Futaba Ito 120.00 5 8.655 6 0T2z 0 2 4 27 8 Petra Klingler 126.00 3 8.901 7 0T2z 0 3 6 23+
Men
Rank Name Points Speed Bouldering Lead Rank Time Rank Score Rank Holds 1 Tomoa Narasaki 4.00 2 fall 1 3T3z 4 3 2 30 2 Jakob Schubert 35.00 7 7.208 5 0T3z 0 6 1 Top 3 Rishat Khaibullin 40.00 1 5.915 8 0T1z 0 2 5 22 4 Kai Harada 54.00 3 6.348 6 0T2z 0 6 3 30 5 Meichi Narasaki 60.00 5 6.689 2 1T3z 1 4 6 21 6 Kokoro Fujii 72.00 6 9.438 3 1T3z 2 6 4 29+ 7 Mickaël Mawem 112.00 4 6.716 4 1T2z 3 4 7 20 8 Alexander Megos 448.00 8 7.570 7 0T1z 0 1 8 0
See also IFSC Paraclimbing World Championships Sport climbing at the 2020 Summer Olympics
References
External links Official website IFSC Youtube Channel with live streams of the events